Taking a Brake
 Emergency Stops
A sudden emergency, such as loss in steering control, does not give the driver time to consult a manual or even to ask questions. The driver will need to know what to do immediately in such situations, and may gain some knowledge by studying the emergency measures listed below:
- A tire suddenly blows out: Steer the car as straight as possible, but do not slam on the brakes. Apply even, gentle pressure to the brake pedal. Then pull off the road slowly onto the shoulder. Try to park the car on level ground.
- The brakes give out: If you have time, quickly pump the brake pedal; this may tighten up the brake and provide some stopping power. If there is not time for this, apply the parking brake slowly but firmly. Another method that can be used if there is time and pumping doesn't help is to shift down on the gears - from Drive to D-1 and then to D-2. You may even have time to shift into reverse. Do not shift into "park," however. You might turn off the ignition with the car in gear. DO NOT turn the key into the lock position, because this will lock the steering wheel. If none of these procedures work, try to sideswipe guardrails, signposts, or other obstructions that will slow the car. Direct hits may cause serious injury, however, so be careful.
- Lights go off: If the lights should suddenly go off at night, try the hazard lights immediately. Even directional signals will produce some light. At the same time, brake the car slowly and pull off the road and stop. DO NOT jam on the brakes. You have plenty of time and space in which to brake to a stop safely unless you are on a hair-pin curve on the side of a mountain.
- Steering locks or gives out: Apply the brakes gently. Do not slam on the brakes, because it may cause the car to swerve. Turn on the hazard lights and blow the horn to warn other drivers of the danger. Get off the road as soon as possible.
- Accelerator sticks: Turn off the engine, shift to neutral, and pull off the road. Power steering and brakes will become manual, so more effort is necessary to turn and stop. You may now try pulling the pedal up with you foot or hand. Stuck pedals are usually due to broken springs or a blockage in the throttle linkage. Sometimes, an item such as a floor mat may be pressing on the pedal. If you cannot find the solution to the problem, call a tow truck. DO NOT drive the car if you can't solve the problem.
- Hood flies up: Look under the space below the hood or stick your head out of the window to see. Gently apply the brakes; do not slam them on. Use signals to turn off the road. The hood latch is probably broken. If you can't tie the hood down with wire, rope, or a necktie, call a tow truck for help. If the hood latch was not completely latched, you may be able to close it down and drive on. If you still can't see, don't drive.
- Car drops into deep water: If the windows are electric, open them immediately and hang on tightly to the steering wheel, dash, car seat, door handles or whatever is stable for a handhold. Wait until the car fills up with water and then swim through the windows. If the windows are crank operated, wait until the car is almost filled with water; then crank the windows down to escape. There will be enough air between the water and the bottom of the car roof to supply your breathing needs. The windows are always the best means of escape, because the doors have too much water pressure against them to be opened.
- Fire in car: Pull off to the side of the road immediately and get out of the car! If it is just a small fire, you may be able to smother it with a blanket, dirt or a coat. DO NOT use water! If the fire is within the fuel system, move at least 500 feet away from the car, because it will likely explode.
- Head-on crash: If the seat belts are not fastened, throw your body across the front seat or the floor. Try to get as low in the car as possible - below the windows and the windshield.
- Electric power cable: If you're in the car and a power cable, is on your car, stay in the car until help arrives.
- Bee in the car: Gently brake the car to a stop on the shoulder of the road. Don't slam on the brakes; the car behind you might run into you and cause worse problems than a bee sting. After stopping, roll down the windows and coax the bee out of the car.
- Sudden window fogging: If the fogging problem is outside the car, turn on the windshield wipers. If it's inside the car, wipe the glass with your hand and brake gently to pull the car off the road. Turn on the defroster and wait until you have clear vision before continuing to drive.
- Car skids: DO NOT slam on the brakes! In fact, stay off the brakes completely. Ease off the gas and steer the car in the direction that you want the "front" of the car to go.
- Wheels fall into low shoulder: Brake gently to slow the car when the wheels go off the road. Don't jerk the steering wheel. Ride on the shoulder until the car can be turned onto the road. This prevents skidding.
- Engine quits: Shift the car into neutral gear and coast onto the shoulder of the road, braking gently. Cars with power brakes and power steering will need more effort than normal.
- Whatever the circumstances, buckle up for safety!
Thanks to Automotive Learning Online
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Manufacturer Spotlight
Wilwood Engineering
Wilwood Engineering has been providing the highest performing racecar disc brake systems to the racing industry since 1977.
Founder and president Bill Wood's first brake designs were developed to give big, heavy stock cars racing at short tracks and super speedways superior brake performance and greater reliability. These first brake components incorporated new design and manufacturing techniques and met with considerable success, helping to redefine the level of disc brake performance for race cars. With his engineering background, Wood quickly applied the new technology to a wide variety of motorsports applications, and by the early 1980's Wilwood had become one of the major suppliers of high performance disc brakes to the automotive racing industry.
Wilwood originally manufactured products in the wide spectrum of aerospace job shops in Southern California, but the 1980's saw a transition to in-house manufacturing. This significant production change allowed Wilwood greater production control and the ability to bring new designs to the racing market faster, an essential requirement in the dynamic and fast paced motorsports industry.
Wilwood's use of specialized computer controlled machinery and a sophisticated computer design network allowed the company to grow quickly, as did a solid foundation of engineers, designers, sales and administrative staff dedicated to the advancement of disc brake performance and reliability. With the corresponding growth of the racing industry, Wilwood, by the end of the 1980's, had become the major source for performance disc brakes.
Wilwood's product line grew from individual brake components to complete braking systems. By the early 1990's, Wilwood had added master cylinders, brake pedals, brake pads,racing hubs, brackets, specialty valves, and many other brake system products to their line. Additionally, new applications were continually being developed and by 1993, Wilwood had become a major source for recreational vehicle disc brakes. Further expansion has produced a wide variety of specialty, OEM, and industrial brake systems.
The 1990's saw steady growth in all of Wilwood's sales divisions. At the root of all the growth is and will continue to be their dedication to the racing industry, which fuels much of their research and development and technical prowess. By continually pursuing goals of higher performing, stronger, lighter, and more reliable brake systems required by the ever-evolving racing market, Wilwood is able to maintain a performance edge in all their disc brake applications, whether on the track, on the street, or off the road. Wilwood's dedication to being the leader in performance is unyielding.
We are a full-line Wilwood distributor and have been proudly selling their fine products since 1987. Shop and compare! You will not find anyone with better Wilwood prices!
If you have questions or fitment issues, please feel free to call us and discuss your project with one of our qualified staff people. You can always reach us toll free at
866-99BRAKE
(866-992-7253)
Monday through Friday 9-5 PST.
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Parking Brake Tip
The parking brake can be useful while driving up hills: If you're driving a manual transmission car, and you pull up to a stop on an incline, you might notice that you don't have enough feet to operate the clutch, brake, and gas at the same time.
In other words, you will likely roll backwards slightly while getting started again. If someone pulls up right behind you, this can be a problem. Your parking brake is useful in this situation: Apply the parking brake after you stop. When you want to go, release the clutch while pressing the gas, and release the parking brake.
This keeps you from having to quickly switch your left foot from the brake to the clutch, or your right foot from the brake to the gas pedal. A little practice, and you'll be able to do it smoothly. Also, remember if you pull up behind someone who is stopped on a hill, give them extra room to roll back a little. Especially if it's a truck.
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What About Brake Hoses and Lines?The master cylinder is connected to each wheel by brake lines and hoses. Brake hoses are specially constructed flexible tubes with metal ends for transmitting fluid under extreme pressure. These hoses are used to connect the calipers to the metal brake lines, allowing the caliper to move when the wheel turns or goes up and down. The entire hydraulic system is filled with brake fluid, which is pressurized by the movement of the master cylinder's pistons. This fluid is very important. Always use only the recommended fluid.
When you remove a wheel, these hoses are easily visible. If the hoses appear cracked or brittle, they should be replaced immediately. Close inspection of the brake hoses is a good way to prevent catastrophe!
A typical upgrade from standard brake hoses is to Steel Braided Brake Hoses.Typical production car flex hoses are constructed from canvas reinforced rubber. They are adequate performers and work safely for a reasonably long time. These hoses do tend to expand or swell under pressure adding to "system flex" and a less firm "pedal feel". Over extended periods, the porous nature of rubber can admit moisture. Rubber tends to deteriorate and crack, increasing porosity and the risk of catastrophic failure.
Stainless steel braided hoses, on the other hand, are made up of a teflon inner hose reinforced by a sheath of braided stainless steel wires. Teflon is impermeable and therefore excludes the entry of moisture. Possibly the most important feature is the strength of this type of hose construction. These hoses help to reduce "system flex" as they do not flex under system pressure and will never deteriorate.
Brake lines are small steel tubes with special internal coatings to prevent rust and corrosion. These tubes connect to the master cylinder, and then run under the car to each of the wheels. At the wheel, a "brake hose" connects the brake line to the caliper or wheel cylinder. As the brake pedal is pressed, the master cylinder forces the brake fluid throughout the brake lines and into the wheel (or brake) cylinders. This pressure causes the slave cylinder pistons to move, forcing the shoes and pads against the drums and rotors to slow the vehicle.
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The Benefits of SS Braided Brake HosesStainless Steel Braided Teflon Hoses are an inexpensive and easy-to-install upgrade to your braking system.
In any braking system there is flex - in the pedal, in the caliper, but most of the flex is in the brake hose. Every time you step on your brake pedal, up to 1500 pounds of pressure moves brake fluid from the master cylinder to the caliper. Most of the way, the fluid moves through rigid steel brake lines. Unfortunately, these steel lines can not complete the journey all the way to the caliper because movement in the line is necessary to connect a non-moving part (the chassis) to a moving part (the brake assembly as attached to the wheel). These connecting brake hoses are made from rubber and nylon. Even with the nylon braiding inside the hose, when that much pressure hits it, it will expand. This expansion, or flex, weakens the braking system as it is responsible for loss of energy meant for the calipers. In a Stainless Steel Braided Teflon Hose, this flex is reduced dramatically. This means quicker pedal response and better pedal feel.
Precision Brakes Company SS Braided Teflon Hoses come with the necessary fittings for direct replacement with no modifications necessary (for most vehicles).
STOP the Press Newsletter Special
20% OFF ALL SS BRAIDED HOSES THROUGH THE MONTH OF OCTOBER!!
Tell us you read about it in STOP the Press.
Contact us toll free at
866-99BRAKE
(866-992-7253) or
E-Mail
us
for more information about hoses to fit
YOUR car.
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Tech Talk
Rotor and Pad Bedding
Production cars sport higher performance engines than they once did. This is the result, in part, of technological advances in efficiency resulting from federal fuel efficiency and emissions control requirements. That, coupled with the need to reduce overall vehicle weight (for fuel economy) has taken its toll on brake rotor mass with obvious detrimental effects on brake performance.
The truth is all too clear: many standard factory brake systems are inadequate! We hear complaints on a daily basis from customers with warped rotors and brake fade problems. In many cases we are able to supply better brake pad compounds with good results. The average motorist however is reluctant to invest in serious performance upgrades such as a "big brake" kit and of course the usual requirement for larger wheels and tires. In these cases we can supply high quality standard replacement rotors with performance features such as cross drilling and / or slotting, but one has to keep in mind that the size and mass of these rotors is the same as the originals and they suffer the same disadvantages; they cannot adequately manage the heat they experience.
Most motorists (and many repair shops) are unaware of the significant advantages of proper brake component “bedding” or “burnishing”. Because rotors are frequently inadequate for their applications, it makes sense to optimize their performance and increase their longevity by taking careful steps to do everything “right” during, and immediately after, the installation. Rotor and pad bedding can be compared to “seasoning” an iron skillet for the best cooking performance. It is well worth the time and effort.
Here are the procedures we strongly recommend for optimum component life and function:
ROTOR BEDDING
All new iron rotors should be bedded-in before being used under normal conditions. Proper bedding-in will prepare the rotor surface, prolong the rotor's life and make it more resistant to thermal checking or cracking and warping under severe braking conditions. The following procedures should be followed when bedding-in rotors:
Thoroughly inspect all brake system components before the bedding-in process. Check all bolt connections, make sure mounting bolts and rotor bolts are properly secured, that brake pads are properly secured by retaining clips or cotter pins, that master cylinders and brake pedals are working properly, that brakes are properly bled with plenty of brake fluid, and that proper engagement of brakes occur when pedal is depressed. Make sure that the rotor surfaces are free from oils, grease and brake fluid.
Because the bedding process is different for rotors and pads, it is best to bed-in a new rotor (disc) using a used set of pads, preferably ones which will not create heat rapidly. Generating heat too quickly will thermal shock the rotors. Street compounds are best, so for street driven vehicles the pads which you have just removed are probably ideal. Likewise, when bedding-in a new set of brake pads, use a used rotor. This new-used bedding process permits controlled bedding of each individual component. Of course, if you are replacing the rotors due to a metal-to-metal situation which forced replacement of the rotors, your used pads should be discarded.
If your vehicle has brake cooling ducts (not common on production cars), close them approximately 75% to expedite the bedding-in process.
In a safe location run the vehicle up to moderate speed (50 – 60 mph) and make several medium brake applications (slow down to 20mph, do not come to a complete stop) to heat up the rotor slowly. Repeat the 60 to 20 decelerations ten or twelve times in quick succession. This will gradually bring the rotor to operating temperature and help reduce the chance of thermal shock caused by uneven heating of the rotor.
Park the car and allow the brakes to cool completely (preferably overnight). While driving the vehicle to where it will be parked, use the brakes as little as possible. When you need to stop the vehicle, get off the brakes just before the car stops and allow it to roll a foot or two before stopping completely.
Do not hold brakes on after performing the bedding-in procedure until cooling is completed. This will avoid “hot spotting” or uneven cooling which can damage the rotor. With the rotor bedding process complete, the used pads can be removed and replaced with new if necessary or desired. Pad bedding is a slightly different but absolutely necessary procedure.
PAD BEDDING
New friction material technology typically employs a layer transfer system. In simple terms, some of the pad friction material is transferred to the rotor when pads reach operating temperature. This has the effect of increasing the rotor’s coefficient of friction among other things. When changing pad compounds, one must keep this in mind and either “drive” the new compound into the rotor by using the new pad to wear off the old compound and transferring its own layer, or by removing the old layer with abrasive (sand or emery) paper or cloth. Lightly sanding the rotors to scuff their surface and remove pad material works best and is recommended.
After bedding the rotors with used pads, the new pads can now be bedded in on the new but bedded rotors. For optimum pad performance it is imperative that the pads be properly bedded in or seated on their rotors.
In a safe location, make a series of gentle stops from low speed. Start at around 10mph to prove that the system is functioning properly. Gradually work up to 20 and 30mph again with gentle stops. Gradually work up to hard braking at higher speeds without ever bringing the vehicle to a full stop. This will bring the pads up to their upper operating temperature. If brake fade is experienced at any time the system should be cooled immediately. Drive at moderate speeds to cool the pads, do not apply the brakes during this process if possible. For street driven cars it is best to finish the cooling with a ten minute (or so) drive on the freeway. Choose a time when traffic will not force the use of the brakes and brake gently wherever possible. As in the rotor bedding procedure, never come to a complete stop with the brakes applied, rather roll the last few feet with the brake released. After initial cooling in this manner, the vehicle should be parked so that the pads can return to ambient temperature. This completes the heat cycle and will ensure minimal pad wear and maximum pad friction for the life of the pads.
Drive Safely!
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History 101
 Why Is It Called An "Automobile"?
First let us consider the name, "automobile." Now, a "car" could have been called anything and, sometimes, it is.
Oliver Evans applied for a U.S. patent in Philadelphia in 1792 on a steam land carriage, which he called the "oruktor amphibolos!" We could have been strapped with that name forever, if it weren't for more reasonable individuals working on the same concept.
Martini was a 14th Century Italian painter, who had been trained in engineering. He designed (on paper) a man-propelled carriage, mounted on four wheels. Each wheel was powered by a hand-turned capstan arrangement. Gearing was also provided to transmit the rotation of each capstan to the wheel below. It may have looked good on paper, but the four turners of the capstans couldn't have kept it up for long before they fell over with exhaustion.
It is lucky for us that Martini did not name his invention after himself, as many inventors do. If he had, and the word had survived to the present, it might be a little confusing. If we were offered a "Martini," we might not know whether to drive it or drink it! (Representatives of MADD and SADD would probably tell us to park it!)
We could be reading headlines like: ORUKTOR ACCIDENT TAKES THREE LIVES or UNITED MARTINI WORKERS ON STRIKE.
The really historical (and fortunate) aspect of Martini's design is the name that he gave it: "automobile," from the Greek word, "auto," (self) and the Latin word, "mobils," (moving).
"Car," on the other hand, comes from an ancient Celtic word, "carrus," meaning cart or wagon.
George B. Selden, an attorney in Rochester, New York, applied for, and finally received, a patent for a "road machine" in 1879.
The Duryea brothers (1895) called their products "motor wagons."
In 1896, Henry Ford introduced an experimental car labeled the "Quadricycle."
Newspapers used words like autometon, motor-vique, oleo locomotive, autokenetic, buggyaut, motor carriage, autobaine, automotor horse, diamote, motorig, mocole, and, of course, the horseless carriage.
In 1895, H. H. Kohlsaat, publisher of the Chicago Times-Herald, offered a $500.00 prize for the best name for the motorized vehicles of the day. The judges picked "motorcycle" as the winner. "Quadricycle" was a favorite, as was "petrocar." The word "automobile" wasn't even in the running!
But in 1897, The New York Times prophesied, "...the new mechanical wagon with the awful name -- automobile...has come to stay..."
Many of the words that are associated with automobiles are derived from the French; i.e, garage, chauffeur, limousine, and chassis are just some examples.
Thanks to Automotive Learning Online
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 Ask the ExpertsQ: Generally, what's the best way to get better braking?
A: If you really want to improve braking, then there are three things you can change:
- rotor size (increased diameter)
- piston size (more effective piston area - more clamping power)
- a better pad compound.
To arrange the possible upgrades in order of ease of installation, cost and effectiveness, we would recommend the following:
- High performance pads and braided stainless steel flex hoses.
- Add to that good quality rotors which are possibly cross drilled or slotted (or both).
- The next practical performance (and cost) jump from here is a big brake upgrade. This would typically include larger more efficient rotors, larger calipers and a variety of pad compound choices.
Keep in mind that big brake upgrades typically require larger than stock wheels and, any brake system will only be as good as the traction of your tires...
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Private Lives
Who is Mark Oliver?
"Hello, Precision Brakes Company, this is Mark."
If that's what you hear when you call us, you're in for a treat. Customers enjoy Mark's friendly, easy-going manner and his knowledgeable responses to their inquiries.
Mark Henry(after his Grandfather) Oliver is a valuable staff member here at the Precision Brakes Company main office. The story you are about to hear is true. The names may have been changed to protect the innocent. In fact, the whole story may have been changed.
About 40 years ago in Howell, MI (outside of Detroit), a child was born. Who could have ever guessed that this bouncing baby boy would find himself bouncing drunken patrons from the bar or working as a- licensed hairdresser
- commercial truck-driver
- bartender
- mechanic
- caterer
- tire store manager
- Shell station Service Manager
- etc.
We wonder if there is anything Mark has NOT done?
Well, there was the matter of the "Welcome to ******* sign that went missing... seems he had a friend with the same name as the town...(a very small Northern California town that shall remain unnamed to protect the guilty from the consequences of their youthful folly...Don't tell us, we don't want to know.)
Mark grew up mainly on California's central coast. He and his partner Amy have a collection of 4 kids (cute too, we've seen 'em.) When he isn't enjoying himself at work, Mark likes to go hiking. "Disappear, basically." he says.
His dream (as of yet, unrealized) car is a 1963 Impala because he's always liked them. He might be gazing at one of several pictures of one on his wall when he's talking to you on the phone.
Other potentially embarrassing details we are eager to share:
- Capricorn: sushi and birthday card should arrive by Jan. 10
- Passions: Loves people. Hates people with an "attitude".
- Favorite Color: Anything but red
- Favorite Food: Sushi
- Favorite Drink: Mark is a self-proclaimed "Pepsiholic" but we understand that he is participating in a 12 step program
- Favorite Animal: Dog (woof!)
- Favorite Movie: True Romance
- Favorite Outfit: Jeans and a t-shirt, his daily uniform. (don't worry, all of the rest of us wear suits)
- Best Trip Ever: Travelling cross-country with his folks when he was 16
- Favorite Cartoon Character: You guessed it. Tom and Jerry.
- Favorite Joke: Sorry, we couldn't use it, this is a Politically Correct Publication! (well, maybe not...)
We feel very fortunate to have Mark in our midst and we're sure you will find him helpful and friendly, as well. (Just don't cop an attitude wearing red while keeping him from his Pepsi driving YOUR tricked-out 63 Impala)
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Precision Brakes Company
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